In March 2022, celebrity fashion counterculturist Julia Fox arrived at the Vanity Fair Oscar After-Party dressed in a head-turning black leather dress with an arm wrapped around her neck.
“Grip Dress” made headlines in the fashion press. Fox’s look “won the blue carpet,” Vanity Fair wrote, with Grazia calling him “a contender for the most controversial look ever.” When asked about the designer, Fox hesitated. “Hans,” she told Vanity Fair that evening, “is a German surname and I can’t pronounce it.”
Julia Fox wore the Han Kjøbenhavn look to the 2022 Vanity Fair Oscar Party. Credit: Fraser Harrison/Getty Images North America/Getty Images
It was actually a Danish surname: Kjøbenhavn after Han Kjøbenhavn, a label founded by Danish designer Yannick Vikkelsø Davidsen. The look was part of the brand’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection, and a bespoke version was created for Fox at the request of her stylist Briana Andalore about eight months before the Oscars, although Davidsen had no idea what to wear it with. . per.
“We didn’t know about it,” he told CNN via video link ahead of his latest presentation at Copenhagen Fashion Week. “Because of the time difference, I woke up in the morning, checked my email and saw that my notifications were going crazy. I think the combination of Julia Fox and her courage to wear a dress – such a specific aesthetic – at such a classic event made it explode the way it did.”
Davidsen certainly makes clothes for the fearless (Beyoncé wore one of Khan Kjøpenhavn’s surreal gold rings on her latest cover of British Vogue) and for those who want to instill a little fear in others. Many elements of the fashion industry give you goosebumps (revisit The Devil Wears Prada if you need credibility), but Davidsen’s work is undeniably intrusive: at his presentation in an exhibition hall in central Copenhagen, a smoke machine pumped atmospheric fog into a white-walled studio, while flickering lights and static interrupted projected images of the campaign. Demonstration dummies, dressed in loose Frankenstein-style coats, made their way through the dry ice. The jackets (made from leather, denim, or what looked like wet feathers) were cut into Davidsen’s signature monstrous silhouette—giant cartoonish shoulders that taper quickly toward the body.
“Unknown Fantasy” was unveiled last week at the Han Kjøbenhavn showroom in Copenhagen. Credit: Khan Chepenhavn
Rising star power
Elsewhere at Copenhagen Fashion Week, which ran from Tuesday, August 9 to Friday, August 12, another label seemingly favored by Fox unveiled a new collection.
Skirts and dresses dominated the Cropper runway, though the clothes were anything but girly. The use of printed mesh, raw-edge denim and dynamic cutouts has given way to a darker version of femininity. “I work with femininity, but it has to have this edge, this power,” she told CNN after the show. Cropper felt vindicated when one of her runway models told her, “I only wear men’s clothes, only trousers, but if I’m going to wear women’s clothes, I would wear this.”
The Jade Cropper SS23 has redefined the traditional female form. Credit: James Cochrane